To wood, or not to wood, that is the question
Winepros Archive
The late Len Evans, one of Australia's greatest wine ambassadors [©VisitVineyards.com]
To wood, or not to wood, that is the question, wrote the late wine legend Len Evans in this piece from the Winepros Archives.
Oak flavours become apparent in wine when such wine is aged for a period of time in a barrel, preferably a new one. Other flavours may be obtained by using oak chips or shaved oak which is soaked in the wine. At best, this tastes like dried pencil shavings, and is not desirable.
But good new oak does wonders for wine, and often the better the wine the more it needs it, or rather, the better the complementary flavours.
So why the vogue for unwooded Chardonnay?
Chardonnay is a great variety: forgiving, ubiquitous, full of flavour. At best, as with a great Le Montrachet - the king of all whites - it can be sublime, one of the greatest of all drinks. So why does it do best with oak flavours incorporated?
Because it does, that's why. It's like eggs and bacon, sausage and mash, oysters with a squeeze of lemon. All perfect partners that need each other.
I think unwooded Chardonnay has been foisted upon you. The winemaker/owners are too mean to pay the near $1000 that each new French barrel costs. Or perhaps they don't think their wine is good enough to require such expensive treatment.
That's fair enough, as long as the retail price reflects this, yet often it doesn't.
Consumers got irritated with too much dominant oak flavour and wines that are unbalanced. Be aware that most of this came from oak chips, barrels being simply too expensive to overload flavour.
One last word. All great Montrachet is matured in brand new barrels.
Reproduced with permission from Winepros Archives. First published May 2000.
Our Recommendations
To see our recommendations, ratings and reviews you must be a logged-in subscriber.
To subscribe please enter your email address in the "Subscribe Now - it's Free" box on the right and click the "Join" button, or fill in this form >
You know winter is coming to an end when the trout fishing season opens. Cook your first big catch in a recipe recommended by the late trout-fishing and wine supremo, Len Evans »
At one time Australia had more shiraz planted then any other variety. From the Winepros Archives, the late Len Evans looks at shiraz, the workhorse of Australian wine »
The unrivalled popularity of chardonnay has ensured that it remains the most widely planted and consumed grape variety on earth, and with good reason. chardonnay is without doubt one of the most food friendly varieties around.
This book is Len Evan's final legacy to the wine world. Completed shortly before his sudden death in 2006, it puts many other wine books to shame – firstly, for its brevity.
Tutor your nose to detect the subtle aromas in wine and learn to appreciate and enjoy its complexities. VisitVineyards.com subscribers purchasing Le Nez du Vin aroma sets can save up to $110 and get two Essential Wine Tasting Guides for the price of one. Read about the 
Thinking celebration? Then surely thinking Champagne, the wine that's always part of life's most important occasions. And sometimes just for the pure bubbly, enjoyment. Dine and sip with royalty, celebrity at history-making moments with your copy of Champagne and Chandeliers by Bernadette O'Shea. VisitVineyards.com subscribers, you receive a 15 per cent discount on purchase 
Le Figaro calls her "the undisputed mistress of the kingdom of wine". Receive an immediate introductory 
Like to discover more about this state's lifestyle, wine, food and more? Then ask us now for your free copy of Tasmania 40 Degrees South the magazine that showcases the best of Australia's island state. 
In our No 1 Wine Book of 2010, Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein matches distinctive wines with recipes from his favourite chefs in this book focussing on new and emerging grape varietals. VisitVineyards.com subscribers and Members buying this book will receive a 
Enjoy the sustainable, relaxed atmosphere Sue and Greg O'Donoghue have created at Green Olive at Red Hill, while indulging in 
Add some refreshing fruit sparkle and a Cheeky Rascal to brighten up your winter! Rebello Wines introduces its multi-award winning strawberry wine and a range of ciders made from fresh, seasonal Victorian fruit and offers VisitVineyards.com subscribers the chance to 