Vines – a dearth of grape varieties
Alternative varieties are the new cool
Ian Hickinbotham
Chardonnay row in a New South Wales vineyard [©Winepros/VisitVineyards.com]
Australian winegrowing has suffered from a dearth of grape varieties.
There are some 5,000 varieties of grape vines used for making wine and commercially we would use less than a hundred.
Actually, this circumstance is self-inflicted, yet Australians have good reason to be thankful. However, the situation is now in flux, as evidenced by the spate of varietal wines being imported from countries like Italy, Spain, Portugal and Chile – varieties that only some oenophiles have heard of.
Our forbears wisely installed severe quarantine restrictions on the importing of grape vines before the 20thcentury. A wonderful consequence has been – this continent doe not have some of the terrible vine diseases. Even so, some 40 years ago an enlightened attempt to bring in new stock resulted in the importation of two bad diseases. Responsibly, the authorities had housed the new vines on Kangaroo Island off the South Australian coast and the whole stock was burnt.
Now the CSIRO is the only organization authorised to bring in grape vine material (which is then distributed through State departments). However, sadly, this may not stop a determined traveller illegally importing a variety in the form of a single bud that could then be grafted onto a growing vine.
It is not well known that in our lifetime we did not even have Pinot Noir, the classical variety of Burgundy and the backbone of Champagne that has been documented since 600AD. When it was first allowed into Australia, there was such a scramble for stock that winegrowers were rationed to as few as six sticks. One large company resorted to grafting the buds from their supplied canes under the microscope to hasten the build up of commercial stock.There was even talk of ‘importing’ specialist ‘grafters’ from Mexico who earn a living from bud-grafting rose bushes every year in America.
Caution was reinforced after we imported ‘Pinot Noir’ from America, but Alan Antcliff of the CSIRO saved us from our own excitement – he declared the vines were really ignoble Gamay.
The difficulty of identifying vines is an aspect that has exaggerated caution. Ampelography, as the science is known, is an extremely specialised profession. To emphasise, after the war, the French specially trained six people and one of them was brought to Australia by the invigorated CSIRO. In the event, Prof. Truel re-named many of our existing vines – even in Government Viticultural Research Stations.
Sponsored by third generation Italian immigrants, we now have Australian wines made from Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo, but there remains thousands of varieties unknown to us. I have tasted Lagrain wine, made by a single winegrower and that’s the rub. Why should a single winegrower obtain vine material, establish a vine nursery, prepare the land, plant the vines, make the wine, age and bottle it and then sell it – successfully – only to be copied by a swarm of other ‘copy-cats’?
Then there is the straight marketing aspect.McWilliams very responsibly promoted a new wine made from Rkatsiteli. It was a lovely wine, but did not sell: people could not pronounce the word (and it has been written that sommeliers avoid selling well known Gewuerztraminer for precisely the same reason). Yet it was possibly the world's most widely planted white wine grape.
Perhaps the way forward is for an enlightened but respected viticulturist to prevail upon all the winegowers of an officially defined region to plant one different proven quality new grape variety of that 4,897 possible. Really this is what happened with Pinot Gris: Max Loder, former teacher of viticulture at Sturt University championed it and ex students planted in on Mornington Peninsula where it now seems to be ‘at home’.
Ian Hickinbotham, one of the most innovative and influential oenologists in Australia over his 50 year career, is the author of Australian Plonky (see related reviews below).
Our Recommendations
To see our recommendations, ratings and reviews you must be a logged-in subscriber.
To subscribe please enter your email address in the "Subscribe Now - it's Free" box on the right and click the "Join" button, or fill in this form >
Our strict quarantine policy has been a mixed blessing over our two centuries of settlement in Australia. Undoubtedly, some horrible plant diseases are not present ... of the 5,000 odd wine grape varieties available »
Vintage 2011 may go down in history as one of the most difficult for winegrowers of all regions of Australia, except for some parts of Western Australia and Tasmania. Rain followed by increased humidity has been the main problem »
No, it's not your memory. Today's wines often taste different to those of a decade or so ago. The percentage of alcohol in wine has increased significantly, along ... High alcohol wines taste 'hotter'. Learn from an expert, Ian Hickenbotham »
One of the spate of new grape varieties imported into this continent following some 150 years of stringent quarantine, verdelho makes a wonderful example of what could be described as a rounded wine »
The yeasts used by the winemaker are completely natural and different from those of the baker. As fruit ripens, it secretes a wax which is more obvious on dark coloured ... This wax or yeast is known as the bloom »
Sixty years ago grape crushers were proudly locally made. Then the first Amos crusher from Germany was imported and the comparison was stark »
There are several shibboleths concerning wine – including in Australia? »
With only a few hectares planted in the entire world, Viognier in the 1980s very nearly became extinct. Nowadays this is a popular grape renowned for its extraordinary combination of perfume and body »
Hugh Johnson, the world’s leading wine writer, is reported to have written: The main role of the modern sommelier is to sell as much wine – and water – as possible, ... highest possible price, as well as to advise »
Although chardonnay would seem to be the more obvious candidate, Jancis Robinson believes that Riesling with its own very distinctive character is the greatest white wine grape in the world »
Once Hungarian Tokay was the most expensive wine on earth. Today, Hungarian winegrowers are regaining their rightful place in the world of wine, with their delicious ... Australians now name their own: Topaque »
Vintage and Tawny – can you tell the difference? And just as you find out, now Australians must come up with another name for our own delicious ports »
This social revolutionary's story seems far removed from anything Australian, but Che Guevara helped Australia become the world leader of mechanical harvesting of grapes »
Daring pairings by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein is a welcome arrival focussing purely on new or emerging grape varieties and matching them with recipes from thirty five of his favourite chefs »
The autobiography of Ian Hickinbotham, one of the most innovative and influential oenologists (wine makers), tracks 50 years of Australian winemaking history »
Tutor your nose to detect the subtle aromas in wine and learn to appreciate and enjoy its complexities. VisitVineyards.com subscribers purchasing Le Nez du Vin aroma sets can save up to $110 and get two Essential Wine Tasting Guides for the price of one. Read about the 
Thinking celebration? Then surely thinking Champagne, the wine that's always part of life's most important occasions. And sometimes just for the pure bubbly, enjoyment. Dine and sip with royalty, celebrity at history-making moments with your copy of Champagne and Chandeliers by Bernadette O'Shea. VisitVineyards.com subscribers, you receive a 15 per cent discount on purchase 
Le Figaro calls her "the undisputed mistress of the kingdom of wine". Receive an immediate introductory 
Like to discover more about this state's lifestyle, wine, food and more? Then ask us now for your free copy of Tasmania 40 Degrees South the magazine that showcases the best of Australia's island state. 
MEMBER BENEFIT: Take advantage of an exclusive spa and luncheon offer 
This beautiful book showcases the island state's renowned fresh food though delicious recipes set alongside images of the very environment that plays a crucial part in its production. Whether you're a Tasmanian at home or abroad this book will have your mouth proudly watering. If you've visited or plan to visit the state, then it's a great souvenir or advance taste of what's to come. 